Technical Manual for digital perm.

This technique manual is open in public. (individual use only)

If any salon, company wants to use this technique manual please e-mail to tatsuyaikezawa@gmail.com

 

I'm glad if this manual helps to softens hair stylists anxiety and make clients happier!

 

I welcome to travel to your salon or visit my salon for teaching about regarding Japanese straightening perm and Digital perm.

If there is any question or point to correct feel free to ask.

 

tatsuyaikezawa@gmail.com

Thank you.

 

 

We mainly use Milbon Liscio. http://www.milbon-usa.com/product/liscio-thermal-retexturizing/


Approximately whole process time. 2.5 hours to 3 hours total. (include haircut)
For digital perm and Japanese straightening perm, there is same theory.
To make curl or straight with heat and solution.
Most important to achieve the there two perm are 1st solution part.
To make the maximum effect with the smallest damage is the most important.
If you use too weak 1st solution hair can not get curl or get straight but if you use too strong/over time there is  no way to be repaired.

 


Steps
1.Consultation& check the clients hair history.
It is one of the most important steps for success.

・Chemical history (past 5 years) especially for hair color.

Any kind of straightening and perm.

Even if you think there is no chemical on it you should better to ask.

Some clients make hair color and back to natural hair color.

Some clients hair looks colored but it happens by the sunlight.

 

 

Colored hair and natural (no colored)hair has totaly different chemical reaction. 

If you use too strong 1st solution and get over processed, it can never be fixed without a cut.


・Share the same image for the curl.
Big curl, tight curl,curls start to roots? only ends?, need just movement or show beach wave?
Better to check with pictures might be the best way.

・Tell your clients if there is any ricsks/demerit before you start.

・Digital perm may fade the hair color. if clients did the hair color.

・Digital perm sometimes makes your hair less smooth.

・Fine hair curls does not last long. 

 

2.Hair cut if need it.

・I usually cut before shampoo for dry cut. If clients want to style change I cut after shampoo.

・Basically long layer style is good for digital perm.

 ・Adjust to thining heavy area (around ear, nape areal) so curls come up evenly.

 

3.Shampoo and pre treatment to clients hair conditon.

 We use milbon noiraudepro keratine.

 

 

 

We use milbon noiraudepro keratine as pre-treatment.

There treatment make less curls so do not apply too much. 

4.Apply 1st solution and rince.

There is 3 kinds of 1st solution. Strong,Normal,Mild.

Alos ther is 3 kinds of protection cream. 90.70.50. Apply weak/dry area of the hair.

 

90 means protect 90% of the chemical reaction.

 ・I feel Mild solution do not hold the curls so I do not use for digital perm.

 

Apply 1st solution and Rince.

・Never apply on scalp. roots hair will be bent by the body heat.

・Usually start from the nape part.

 Nape area hair is thicker and less damage than other area so need longer time.

・If the ends part is dry apply protection cream or skip to apply the ends area and apply later.

・If clients did digial perm before and stiil have curls we can do touch up.

   Apply the protection 90 for curl area and apply 1st solution only re-grow part of the hair.

・If clients did digtal perm before and want to whole hair again curls area need much less time than re-grow area so use protection cream and apply 2 steps.

・Rincing 1st solution. Well rince and quick shampoo recommend. Does not have to specific shampoo and conditioner.

 

Semi/Demi permanent color

 Semi/Demi color is milder than permanent color hair is a close condition to no chemical hair.

1st solution takes pigment of the hair away and make righter so tell clients before digital perm. 

 ・Manicure color

 Same condition of no chemical hair.

 1st solution take manicure away(not 100% though) so tell clients before digital perm.

 

Approximately How many minutes should I wait after applying first solution?

 

 

・Asian hair no chemical, no color. use protection cream if ends are dry.

Fine hair...Normal solution with 10 to 15 min

Normal hair... Normal solution with 15 min 

Coarse hair... Strong+Normal solution with 15 min and more

 

・Asian hair with single permanent color. (Color is close to natural color or gray cover)

Fine hair... Normal solution with 5 min with pre treatment and protection cream.

Normal hair... Normal solution with 5 to 10 min 

Coarse hair... Normal solution with 10 min.

 

・Asian hair with more than 3 levels lighter than  natural color.

1st solution usually reacts much firster than no color hair so better to apply as first as possible. 

or if you have not enough experience better to avoid.

 

Fine hair...Normal solution with within 5 min with pre treamtnent and protection cream.

Normal hair...Normal solution with around 5 min pre with treamtnent and protection cream.

Coarse hair... Normal solution with around 5 to 10 min with pre treamtnent and protection cream.

 

・Asian hair with breached hair.

1st solution usually reacts just after applyed so have to be very carefull.

If you have not enough experience better to avoid.

 

 

Fine hair...Better to avoid.

Normal hair...Better to avoid or Normal solution with less than 5 min pre with treamtnent and protection cream.

Coarse hair...Better to avoid or Normal solution with less than 5 min pre with treamtnent and protection cream.

 

 

 

Caucasian hair need stronger solution and more time compare to Asian hair.

Because caucaisan hair tends to loose the curls easier better to avoid to use pre treatment or just little.

 

・Caucasian hair with no chemical, no color. use protection cream if ends are dry.

Fine hair...Normal+strong solution 1:1 with 10 to 15 min with protection cream.

Normal hair... Strong solution with 15 min and more.

Coarse hair... Strong solution with 15 min and more.

 

・Caucasian hair with single permanent color. (Color is close to natural color or gray cover)

Fine hair... Better to avodi or Normal solution with 5 min with and protection cream.

Normal hair... Normal solution with 5 to 10 min with and protection cream.

Coarse hair... Normal solution with 10 min and more with and protection cream.

 

・Caucasian hair with more than 3 levels lighter than  natural color.

1st solution usually reacts much firster than no color hair so better to apply as first as possible. 

or if you have not enough experience better to avoid.

 

Fine hair...Better to avoid.

Normal hair...Better to avoid or Normal solution with 5 min with and protection cream.

Coarse hair... Better to avoid or Normal solution with 5 min with and protection cream.

 

・Caucasian hair with breached hair.

1st solution usually reacts just after applyed so have to be very carefull.

If you have not enough experience better to avoid.

 

Fine hair...Better to avoid.

Normal hair...Better to avoid.

Coarse hair...better to avoid.

 

 

5.How to wind digital perm rods.

 

Rods will be connected and heated by the machine(around 210F), there have to be protect between rods and scalp.

 

 

 

 

 

Approximately what size of the rods should I use?

 

Asian long hair   

Big curls  nape 22mm to top 24 or 26mm   

Normal curls nape 20mm to top 22 or 24mm

Tight curls nape 16mm to top 18 mm

 

Asian midium hair 

Big curls  nape 18mm to top 22mm   

Normal curls nape 16mm to top 20mm

Tight curls nape 14mm to top 16 mm

 

Cocasian long hair   

Big curls  nape 18 mm to top 20mm   

Normal curls nape 14mm to top 18mm

Tight curls nape  Hard to get,

 

Cocasian midium hair 

Big curls  whole hair 16mm

Normal curls whole hair 12mm 14mm

Tight curls nape Hard to get.

 

6.Heat by the machine.

・Around 210F for 15 min to 20 min.  Need to be wait untill curls part of the hair will be dry.

 Colored and fine hair should be less tempreture. Around 190F

・rubber ring sometimes cut by the heat so you always should be stay near the clients. 

・There is a case rods do not get heat for disconnecting cable or itself better to check each rods really work after start the machine.

 

・Prevent  from the rubber ring mark better to use sticks for each rods.

 

7.Apply 2nd solution and rinse.

Normal, Coarse asian hair...normal Liscio 2nd solution. 5min and rinse.

Fine asaian hair and Caucasian hair... Milbon perm neutralizer. 10min and rinse.

 

Rinse well and use conditoner or salon deep conditoner.

 

8. Finish

Dry roots area and divide back side for 4 front side for 2 parts and twisted with fingers.

She allows me to post her youtube so I introduce this.