This technical manual is open in public. (individual use only)
If any salon, company wants to use this technique manual please e-mail to email@example.com
I'm glad if this manual helps to soften hair stylists anxiety and make happier to people all over the world
I'm welcome to have a class your place or my salon for regarding Japanese straightening perm and Digital Perm.
If there is any question or point to correct feel free to ask.
We use Milbon Liscio. http://www.milbon-usa.com/product/liscio-thermal-retexturizing/
１、Consultation＆Hair history. You should confirm before you start.
It is one of the most important steps for success.
・Chemical history (past 5 years) especially for hair color.
Even if you think there is no chemical on it you should better to ask.
Some clients make hair color and back to natural hair color.
Some clients hair looks colored but it happens by the sunlight.
"Do you have any chemical on your hair for past 5 years."
Colored hair and natural (no colored)hair has different chemical reaction.
If you use too strong 1st solution and get over processed, it can never be fixed without a cut.
What kind of straightening your clients want.
Need to have the same idea with clients.
Sometimes a picture helps.
Pin straightening. Frat iron.
Natural straight, Ends curl or only for no frizz.
We sometimes use no straightening iron for natural straight.
Sometimes we do roots to middle Japanese straightening perm.
Middle to ends digital perm.
Different way/technique and tools are used for the target of straightening perm.
Below is the list you have to know before you start the straightening perm.
・Make bangs or change part.
It is hard to change the part and hair direction after the straightening perm so you should change the clients part and start it.
Also, you should make/cut the bangs before you start to do it.Does not have to complete cut)
Bangs finish the iron for natural in curl.
・Change the hairstyle.
Make shorter length more than 3 inches better to cut quick cut first then start.
Make shorter time and use fewer products.
After ironing give a real haircut.
Tell the demerit to the clients before you start.
・Straightening perm may fade the hair color.
・Straightening perm makes flat and less movement.
・May get dry your hair.
・Bangs but does not last compared to long hair.
・Once you start it you have to keep doing this perm every 6 to 10 months.
２, Technique, and check for the step by step.
Basic If there is no chemical on hair.Comb through and hair get straight good time to rinse.
We mix cream type and gel type 10:1. Make easier to apply and check the time to rinse.
Caucasian hair: 1st solution strong 15min
Asian hair: 1st solution normal 15min
Shampoo and conditioner. If client shampoo already, water spray is ok too.
If clients have already straightened hair by perm and this part of hair is still straight well we only need to do re-glow part of the hair. Use protection cream for protection the straight hair.
We usually start to apply the first solution from the nape part. Most thick hair and take a longer time to make softer.
If clients have baby hair usually face line and outline use protection 50 for protecting their weak hair.
These baby hair usually needs less time to soften.
If you think takes a longer time to apply whole hair (more than 15 min), you can start to adjust bit weaker 1st solution and make stronger and stronger close to finishing.
If Clients hair is easy to get tangle you should comb through well before you start to apply the first solution otherwise it takes much longer time to apply the first solution. Better to apply solution at the same time as possible for softening the hair equally.
Protection cream and some pre-treatment(ppt) make more tangle so better to use minimum amount.
Colored hair may better to apply 1st solution for 2 people. Colored hair has less waiting time to rinse.
Approximately How many minutes should I wait after applying first solution?
For the each different hair type.
・Single permanent color. Color is close to own color or gray cover.
Caucasian hair: 1st solution normal + mild start. normal finish. 5 to 10 min.
Asian hair: 1st solution normal + mild start. normal finish 5 to 10 min.
We sometimes touch up the color and straightening later in same one day.
It makes easy for the straightening perm too.
Color should be 1 or 0.5 level darker than target color. Straightening perm makes bit lighter.
Hair color is lighter than 3 levels from the natural color.
1st solution is going to react first so better to apply as first as possible. within 10 min or adjust by the protection cream.
Caucasian hair: 1st solution mild start. around 5 min to rinse.
Asian hair: 1st solution mild start. within 5 to 10 min to rinse.
Check the hair all time after apply 1st solution. Comb through and hair get straight rinse.
1st solution is going to react very first so better to apply as first as possible. within 10 min or adjust by the protection cream.
Explain to clients about the possibility of getting dry the hair. Better not do the straightening perm. Recommend keratin treatment or other types of treatment.
Because semi-color is milder than permanent color hair is a close condition to no chemical hair.
Caucasian hair: 1st solution Normal 10 to 15 min.
Asian hair: 1st solution normal 10 to 15 min.
Check the hair frequent about every 2 min. Comb through and hair get straight rinse.
Same condition of no chemical hair.
Caucasian hair: 1st solution Strong 10 to 15 min.
Asian hair: 1st solution normal 10 to 15 min.
1st solution take manicure away(not 100% though) so tell clients about it.
Liscio 1st solution gel type.
3.Apply 1st solution for highlight hair.
Low lighted highlight(less than 3 level from original hair color)
Can apply same way as single color.
Apply protection cream on the damage ends and around face line hair.
High lighted highlight(more than 3 level from original hair color)
Same way of breach hair color.
Better not to do the straightening perm. Better to do keratin treatment instead.
About protection cream.
There is protection 90 ,70, 50(Knoture 0)
Protection 90 means deduce 90% of the 1st solution reaction.
Why highlight hair is hard to get beautiful straightening is there are colored hair and no-colored hair are mixing so if we just apply same 1st solution no-colored hair need stronger solution but colored hair should be used weaker solution so hard to be softening the hair equally.
So highlight hair better to use protection cream to protect colored hair.
We have to pic up all the highlight hair and apply the protect on the highlight hair so we can adjust to minimum processing speed.
For bleach highlight hair ... Protection cream 90
High lighted highlight hair...Protection cream 70
Low lighted highlight hair...Protection cream 50
There is impossible to pick up all the highlight but especially around face area , part area highlight should pick up.
Combined with Keratin treatment and Japanese straightening perm.
If your clients have high tone highlight, might be better to advice combination with treatment and Japanese straightening perm.
If clients has highlight only face line and top part.
keratin treatment for highlight part.
Japanese straightening perm for no colored area.
This one works well with fine hair.
4.Iron work (1 hour to 1.5 hour)
Double check the hair part. Use heat protection specially around face area and hair ends.
Dry whole hair and also blow dry well following the clients natural hair direction.
If you do iron work against the clients natural hair direction there is possibility to
bent the roots part of the hair.
You should do the iron work for whole hair even apply 1st solution only roots part.
Because you when you rinse the 1st solution no applied part of the hair could get
chemical action. If could get frizzy without ironing work.
Do not ironing too high temperature specially dry hair and fine hair.
It get frizzy and could never be fixed. No more higher than 400 F.
5.2nd solution. After 5 min rinse.
Have to apply where you apply 1st solution.
6. Rinse and finish.
Just rinse(no shampoo) and deep conditioner.
Use dryer and finish.
No shampoo for 48 hours and no clips and robber rings.
If there is questions feel free to ask
Feb 28th 2018